Learn How to Setup and Maintain Your Guitar

•May 18, 2012 • Leave a Comment

If you start playing guitar regularly you will inevitably be confronted with maintaining and adjusting your guitar. At the very least you will be changing strings (unless you’re like a guy I know who didn’t change strings on his strat for five years – not recommended!). If you’re not happy with the setup or start dabbling with different string guages you will need to adjust intonation, string height and neck curvature. If you’rel no happy with the sound you’ll want to replace the pickups. You can have a guitar tech do all of those things, but it’ll cost you…

If you’re the least bit handy you can learn a lot of the basic setup and maintenance and get a much better feel for your instrument and how it works.

I wish I’d read up on these things a bit earlier since I was pretty unhappy with my main guitar after having switched around string guages quite alot. The four highest bands would make the same notes if I didn’t raise the bridge a lot and get horribly high action. I thought the frets were uneven in height or the the fretboard was coming loose from the neck closest to the body. Turns out the neck had to much curve and that the truss rod needed tightening. Took me months before I mustered up the courage to just do it. It was pretty simple, but read up on how to do it and be very careful turning very small amounts at a time.

I’ve done the following things to my guitars:

  • Change strings – this is pretty much something any guitarist should know how to do and that everyone can learn
  • Change string guages
  • Adjust bridge height (electric and acoustic)
  • Fretboard rejuvenation (thourogh cleaning and applying lemon oil)
  • Change pickups (real soldering involved!)
  • Trussrod adjustment (electric and acoustic)
  • Intonation

My best advice is don’t be afraid but be very careful. Read up carefully on how to do things before you start or ask someone knowledgeable before you start. Some things are less risky (changing strings) and some require more attention (like truss rod adjustments).

Since I’m really no expert guitar tech I won’t try do describe each task, instead I’

ll leave you with some great links:

Changing Strings

Basics from about.com/guitar
Changing strings on an Ibanez with ZR bridge (probably similar on other floating trems)

Setup

Complete tutorial on setup of electric guitars at Project Guitar

Fixing Problems

Great articles on fixing almost anything on acoustics and electrics at Fret not Guitar Repair.

Changing Pickups

Pickup FAQ at Ultimate Guitar

Please give your best link tips on the subject in the comments!

Creating Your First Song Part III: Putting It All Together

•May 15, 2012 • Leave a Comment

This is the third and final part of a series. You’ll find the previous parts here:

Creating Your First Song Part I: Writing Riffs
Creating Your First Song Part II: Recording and Arranging

The Other Instruments

Having recorded your guitar tracks and decided the order of the different parts you are ready to put them together into a song. Things that are obviously missing are the tracks for the other instruments, for metal usually drums and bass. I have access to neither a live drummer or a bass player, so I use the next best thing: virtual instruments.

For drums I use Superior Drummer, a very cool drum plugin from Swedish software studio Toontrack. Most of you probably know of it. One of the coolest things about it is that they’ve had really good drummers record every single part of the drumkit, hit in usually three different ways (like center, off-center rim for snares) at a bunch of different strengths. So if you take down velocity on a snare, it doesn’t just use the same sample at a lower volume, it uses a whole different sample. So a drumkit in SD can consist of something like 1000 samples.

I’m going to write a separate post about programming drum tracks later on, but some basics belong here. I usually create one basic drum pattern per part – one for the verse, on for the prechorus, one for the chorus etc. Rather than start from one of the prefabricated patterns shipped with the drum plugin (which I often use in the previous phase, when trying to arrange the song), I start over fresh. I’m always looking to get the drums to reinforce the riffs of the guitar tracks.

With bass it’s pretty much the same. I program the bass using MIDI that is rendered by a plugin. The plugin I use is Cakewalk Studio Instruments Bass. For its price it’s quite decent, but it completely lacks the finesse of Superior Drummer’s adaptive sample selection etc. For that you’d get Trillian, which I’m probably going to get later on.

I create one basic bass pattern per part. Since I’m no bassist, I usually let the guitars be the guide and create the MIDI pattern for the bass that follows the rhythm guitars pretty closely, sometimes a bit simplified for faster riffs.

This is actually pretty much what you want in metal. The bass is supposed to be a third guitar that provides the bottom end. For other types of music the bass can be the sole melodic rhythm instrument, and that would probably result in pretty different patterns.

Arranging the Guitar Tracks

I often start putting the final song together before I have good enough complete guitar tracks recorded. One reason for this is that I have a lot more computer time available than I have guitar time. I often start out with half recordings that were done too early since didn’t have time to practice the riffs enough.

Another is that I’m usually anxious to try out different variants of the song arrangment. So there’s a lot of cutting and pasting going on in this phase. That’s fine, for the finished song I re-record all the guitar parts.

Mixing

I’m not going to go into great deals of detail on mixing, since I’m not very good at it (at least not yet). I would really recommend you read WDYRSLA and Emrz’s book Systematic Mixing Guide. But I’ll provide some basic tips anyway.

For me mixing is all about separation and coherence. You want to separate all your instruments clearly so that they don’t interfere with each other and create mud. You accomplish this by separating the tracks’ frequency spectrums by using EQ to cut away parts that would collide. You also have panning at your disposal, to create a lateral separation.

The other goal is coherence, to make the tracks form parts of a whole. Your most important tools here are matching the volume of the tracks and EQ:ing away things that stand out too much. Carefully applied reverb can provide the illusion that all tracks were recorded in the same space and glue the tracks together.

I always double track rhythm guitars. I record two tracks as identical as I can get them and pan them hard left and right. This makes them sound bigger and also leaves room in the middle for lead guitars and other instruments. I cut pretty hard high-passing somewhere between 70 and 100 Hz, and low-pass somewhere around 11 kHz. If there’s time I also try to pinpoint artifacts and missounds and filter them out with narrow-band notches. For a rock song I might apply some reverb, for metal that usually just clogs up the sound. Lead guitars usually get both reverb and delay.

I split the bass track in two, and on the second track I add some distortion with a guitar amp sim. The original track provides the low end and the distorted parallel track makes it meld better with the guitars. Both tracks are panned center. After just having read the Systematic Mixing chapter on bass, I’ll probably do three parallel tracks from now on, separating them more with EQ.

The drums I don’t EQ much, I more commonly go with one of the presets depending on genre. Ola Englund’s Superior preset is good, although I usually crank up the overhead mics a bit to get more cymbals and just a little more room. For rock songs I’d use some other presets with more overhead volume and maybe add some reverb. If the kick and snare don’t make it through the guitars I add some parallel compression to get more punch.

The mixing part can actually drive you a bit crazy. You probably don’t have access to a prepared room and professional perfect studio monitors. Like me you probably have a study or just your bedroom and some decent hobby-level monitors. Try your mix in as many environments you can. So you switch around between monitors, hifi speakers and different headphones to find the mix that sounds good in all of them and it’s just endless tweaking. At some point you just decide it’s as good as it’s going to get and call it quits (no guarantee you won’t go back later though).

Finishing the Song

After the fundamental mix is done I start embellishing things.

For drums I add small variations to the patterns and fills. Sometimes I steal fills from the repositories like EZ Drummer’s, but mostly I make my own. I can take quite a bit of dabbling in the MIDI editor to get good fills, there’s usually a number of exports of the song and listening to it with the new drum patterns in bed or on my way to work.

For guitars the embellishment is adding lead parts. The solo is usually done before the mixing stage, but other small lead stuff gets added last. There might be a pedal melody riff allng with the chorus, a lead variation of the verse riff etcetera. Sometimes I solo the guitars for one bar for dramatic effect, sometimes I add a harmony to a part of the rhythm.

These are all small things but do a lot for the overall feeling of the end result. Just as with mixing it’s hard to know when to stop – just adding more stuff will not make the song better and better.

Finally, to compete a little with professional grade tracks, I use a limiter on the master track. A good one is TLS Limiter.

What Do I Do With It?

Once the song is done – what’s the next step? If you’re working on an album it’s probably obvious. If not, I’d recommend putting it on SoundCloud. It’s a great way of hosting your songs and getting some feedback, and you can add your tracks to groups for more exposure. SoundCloud also provides excellent embedding features for blogs, forums and Facebook.

Here’s the final version (?) of the song I’ve been working on in the two previous posts in this series. I’m quite happy with it considering it’s my second fully finished song.

Guitar Tweets

•May 14, 2012 • Leave a Comment

Blasting Death – RIP Chuck Schuldiner who would have been 45 today and probably would have lived if there’d been universal healtcare #guitar

http://twitter.com/osirisguitar/status/201922137701892096

Guitar Tweets

•May 12, 2012 • Leave a Comment

AC7 Core DAW control surface app now available in mini version for #iPhone http://t.co/WuDmcIUS #guitar (tried it – works well with #reaper)

http://twitter.com/osirisguitar/status/201346520535154688

Guitar Tweets

•May 11, 2012 • Leave a Comment

RT @iDesignSound: Price Drop: JamUp Pro (#iOS Universal): $19.99 -> $9.99 http://t.co/sH9pOVwf #iPhone #iPad #Guitar #Apps #Effects # …

http://twitter.com/osirisguitar/status/201052243921879041

Guitar Tweets

•May 11, 2012 • Leave a Comment

RT @Jsmusicschool: #FF #Guitar @BobbyTGuitar @gui7ars @osirisguitar @Annie_Moffatt23 @TheOnlineGuitar @AlfieWilliamsUK @julimorganmusic …

http://twitter.com/osirisguitar/status/200847271158497280

Guitar Tweets

•May 10, 2012 • Leave a Comment

iPhone + #guitar + headset tip: Plug in headset first, guitar interface last – input source is always last plugged in device.

http://twitter.com/osirisguitar/status/200560027201847299

How to Get a Great Guitar Tone from Amp Sims

•April 24, 2012 • 3 Comments

Using software amplification simulators, or amp sims for short, is becoming increasingly popular. The benefits are many, you can tweak your sound endlessly, switch between different amp sims trying to find the best tone for your song. A drawback is that an amp sim not properly tuned can generate digital artifacts giving away that it’s not a perfectly recorded physical amplifier. Here’s how to get a great tone!

What you need

  • A music production application (DAW), such as Reaper, Cubase, Logic or Pro Tools.
  • An amp sim plugin in an appropriate format (VST for most DAWs), such as one of LePou’s plugins.
  • An speaker cabinet impulse file, such as one of Catharsis impulses.
  • An impulse loader plugin, such as LePou’s LeCab2.
  • A tubescreamer simulator plugin, such as TS-999.
  • Two good dry guitar recordings of the same rhythm parts. The closer they are the better, but you can’t use the same recording twice by just duplicating one take.

Some Tips

The biggest trick in getting a great tone from any digital amplifier software is not to use too much gain. It’s much better to use an overdrive in front to get a tighter sound from the amp than cranking up the gain, since amp sims usually get fizzier and generate artifacts compared to a physical tube amp.

I always double track my rhythm guitars. Two identical takes (or – as similar as I can get them) panned completely left and right. This makes the guitar sound fill out the stereo space, making the sound much bigger and leaving space in the middle for other instruments and guitar leads.

Hands on

Create two tracks, one for each guitar take. Pan the two tracks completely left and right respectively. Starting with one of the tracks, add the TubeScreamer sim to the FX chain. Make sure it’s set to high quality/high multiple oversampling. Turn gain all the way down to zero and level to max. This way the TS will push the signal without distorting it. Turn the tone to your liking, I usually leave it flat in the middle.

Next, add your amp sim. I’m using Legion, which unlike most other amp sims, isn’t actually based on a real amp (it’s LePou’s own brainchild). It’s tighter than the Lecto and a little less fizzy in the higher registers. I’m using the red channel (high gain) and I’ve rolled down the gain a bit. I could probably go lower still… I’ve set it for high quality and stereo (since I use a single bus for both guitar tracks – but thats the advanced class). I’ve kept most settings pretty default, but I’ve boosted the mids slightly along with presence and contour.

Last I set up the cab impulses. I use Lecab2 for loading impulses. I’ve set up two identical cabs for right and left (again, that’s the master class). Instead of applying high and low passes with EQ I usually use the built in filters in the cab loader, removing anything lower than 70 Hz and anything higher than 11 kHz. Remember, it’s always better to remove bad stuff than trying to boost good stuff.

Lastly, apply EQ and reverb as appropriate. For my example I didn’t use any of either. Here’s my lab tone:

I’m going to tweak it further, probably dial down the gain a bit further.

UPDATE: Here’s a clip with drums, so you can here what it sounds like in a mix:

Follow The Osiris Guitar Twitter List

•April 15, 2012 • Leave a Comment

There’s a lot of interesting guitar knowledge on Twitter. It can be a chore finding the good accounts to follow, but luckily I’m doing that job for you. I’m maintaining a list of bloggers, famous guitarists, teachers and gear manufacturers. The list is, of course, called Osiris Guitar. Here are the latest tweets from people on the list:

To follow the list, just go here: https://twitter.com/#!/osirisguitar/osiris-guitar

If you want to follow my account, it’s here: https://twitter.com/#!/osirisguitar

Tricks to Learn All the Notes on the Fretboard

•April 9, 2012 • Leave a Comment

A challenge for almost all beginners is to learn the notes on the fretboard. The notes on a guitar are inherently more difficult to learn than on a piano, since you don’t have the help of white and black keys. But here’s what worked best for me:

1) Learn the notes on the low E string. Almost everyone learns this first. Knowing just the notes on low E you can power chord your way through a lot of songs :-).

2) Now you obviously also know the notes on high E (illustrated below as the same notes having the same colors).

3) Here’s something that was a bit of an eye-opener for me: the D string is exactly two frets shifted up the next from the E. This means third finger in a three-finger power chord is on the octave (same note) as the first finger.

4) So now you know three strings, from really only knowing one :-). Time to learn a new string – A.

5) The G string is two frets shifted up from the A, just like the relation between E and D.

6) Now there’s only one string left. Either you just memorize that two, or you use the fact that B is two frets shifted down from A. So just like the relation between E and D and A and G, but in the other direction.

So now you know the whole fretboard from really only memorizing two strings!

Another good exercise is to find and play all instances of a note across the fretboard. Start with all Es. Good luck!